FAQ #1		What equipment do I need?

Primary Fermenter:
	Preferably 25-30 litres, food-grade plastic container complete with cover and markings to indicate the 23 litres (5 gallons) level.
Carboy or Secondary Fermenter:
	This is a 23 litre bottle-shaped container made of either glass or food-grade plastic.
Airlock & Rubber Bung:
	Used to hermetically seal a primary fermenter or carboy. Prevents wine spoilage while allowing carbon dioxide gas to escape. Always half-fill airlock with water or a sulfite solution when fitted to the fermenter or carboy.
Racking Tube & Siphon Assembly:
	Food grade plastic hose attached to a stiff acrylic rod. Racking is the act of transferring wine from container-to-container through siphoning by gravity.	TIP: To produce the best siphoning flow, have "from" container positioned approximately 48 inches HIGHER than the "to" or "receiving" container.
Hydrometer & Test Cylinder:
	Measures liquid density or Specific Gravity (S.G.) which is used to determine the fermentation's progression and sugar levels. The S.G. of water is 1.000. Density increases as sugar or concentrated juices are added to water causing the hydrometer to float higher. Example: 1.085 is the normal starting density for the average 28-day wine kit.	TIP: Either float the hydrometer directly in the primary fermenter OR fill the test cylinder with wine. Spin the hydrometer to release bubbles from the sides of the hydrometer. Take a reading at eye level.
Floating Thermometer:
	The thermometer is used to monitor fermentation temperature.
Mixing Spoon:
	A food-grade plastic spoon used for stirring.
Wine Bottles:
	Approximately 30 wine bottles in a 750ml format will be required.
Corks:
	Approximately 30 corks, agglomerated or natural # 9 long or short, will be required.

 

FAQ #2		Is cleaning and sterilizing the equipment really so important?

Absolutely! Easily, 90% of all failures can be attributed to unclean fermentation equipment. All equipment which comes into contact with the wine should be first cleaned and then sanitized. These steps should be done immediately prior to use. Below are some cleaning and sanitizing tips.
Definition of Cleaning:
	Is the process of removing all the dirt and grime from the surface, thereby removing all the sites that can harbor bacteria.
Definition of Sanitizing:
	Is the process of killing all of the harmful micro-organisms that can cause the must (unfermented wine) to spoil.
Cleaners:
	Diversol (pink powder), for example, is a blend of detergent and chlorine. Chlorine is an effective cleaner because when it is dissolved in cold water it forms a caustic solution that is good at breaking up organic compounds.	TIP: Household cleaning products such as dish or laundry detergents are NOT RECOMMENDED since these products often contain perfumes that can be absorbed into plastic equipment. In addition, some detergents cannot be rinsed completely and often leave a film on the surface.
Sanitizers:
	Prepare a stock solution of sodium metabisulfite solution by mixing 50 grams of sulfite (9 teaspoons) in 4 litres (1 gallon) of water. The solution should be stored hermetically to ensure freshness.	TIP: Transfer some sulfite solution to a plastic atomizer/spray bottle. This will facilitate the process of sanitizing equipment items such as racking tubes, siphon hose and stirring spoon.

 

FAQ #3		My plastic equipment (fermenter/carboy) has scratches. Should I still use them?

Nope. It's time to change your equipment when the scratches have become too visible. Even with cleaning and sanitizing, these scratches may harbor bacteria. Your acrylic siphon hose (J-Tube) and plastic tubing should also be changed if they become scratched or discolored.

 

FAQ #4		Do I have to use bottled water in the preparation of my wine kit?

Absolutely not. Bottled mineral water or distilled water is, however, highly recommended in order to produce a higher quality wine. If you choose to use tap water we suggest that you boil it first. This drives off most of the chlorine and, with hard water, precipitates some of the dissolved minerals which may affect the overall taste of your wine.

 

FAQ #5		Bentonite - What the heck is that stuff?

Bentonite is a clay which is used extensively in the commercial wine industry as a fining agent and fermentation enhancer. Depending on the wine kit manufacturer, Bentonite is usually added on either Day 1 or Day 20.

 

FAQ #6		Yeast - Should I follow the instructions on the packet itself or the instructions in the wine kit recipe?

The world's largest yeast producer, Lallemand, recommends that the yeast be prepared according to the instructions on the packet. Having said this, it must also be noted that the yeast should be diluted in WARM and not HOT water. It should also be noted that some wine kit manufacturers suggest that sprinkling the yeast on the top of the wine without stirring is o.k. All unused yeast packets be stored in the freezer or refrigerator.

 

FAQ #7		Hey, I started my wine 2 days ago it didn't start fermenting yet. How come?

Wine, or more importantly yeast, requires a warm environment in order to reproduce. Ensure that the ambient room temperature is in the 22-25C or 72-77F range. Fermentation should begin (noticeable foaming on the top of the wine) within 48 hours. If the fermentation has not commenced after 48 hours the room temperature may be too cool or the yeast may be weak. Try raising the room temperature and wait 24 hours for the fermentation to begin. If fermentation has still not commenced, we suggest you add another wine yeast.

 

FAQ #8		When I racked my wine on day 7 my carboy was not full. Is that o.k.?

No. It is recommended that the carboy be topped up at all times in order to avoid oxidization. It is preferable to top up with wine (perhaps from a previous batch of wine) instead of water.

 

FAQ #9		Can I perform my "Day 20" steps earlier if my density has reached .990 prior to Day 20?

Bad idea! Your density may very well be .990 and you may not see any movement in your airlock, but make no mistake, your wine is still fermenting, admittedly, very slowly. Also, as the fermentation enters it's quiet stage, the wine is attempting to begin the clearing phase.

 

FAQ #10		Can I skip adding the day 20 "Chemicals" altogether?

Another bad idea. Firstly, the use of the word "chemicals" is overstated. The Day 20 step usually includes a clarifier such as Isinglass (a fish protein), Gelatin (animal-based foodstuff) or Bentonite (clay powder) which help precipitate suspended matter from a cloudy wine and a stabilizer (usually a blend of Potassium Metabisulfite and Potassium Sorbate) which prevents renewed fermentation and acts as an anti-oxidant. These ingredients are very important to the wine process.

 

FAQ #11		De-gasing, do I really need to do all this stirring?

The principal behind de-gassing, or frequent stirring just prior to adding the clarifier is to remove as much carbonic gas as possible. If we do not remove this gas, the clearing process becomes counter-productive...by that I mean the clarifier is trying to precipitate solids DOWNWARD to the bottom of the carboy while the carbonic gas is releasing RISING bubbles.